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History

Greek wine has a rich and fascinating history that dates back to prehistoric times. Evidence of wine grape vines in Greece can be traced back to the Ice Age, making vine growing and winemaking among the oldest activities of humankind in the region.
After a period of decline, winegrowing spread throughout the Greek realm during the Archaic period (7th century BC), thanks to favourable climate and soil conditions. The Classical period (480–323 BC), particularly the Golden Age of Athens, saw the birth of democracy, philosophy, and the praises of Greek wine in the works of classical writers, tragedists, and philosophers.


The Hellenistic times, following the death of Alexander the Great, saw the spread of Greek civilization and winegrowing to places like Egypt and India. During the Roman period (146 BC–324 AD), the Romans adopted many Greek cultural elements, leading to the emergence of the "Graeco-Roman" civilization.
In Byzantine times (324–1453), Christianity became the official religion and spread throughout the Empire. Even during the Crusades and after the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453, Europeans maintained a presence in Greece, especially in the south and on the islands.


Under Ottoman rule (1453–1821), the wealth of the Greek vineyard was largely untapped due to religious restrictions on alcohol consumption. The Greek War of Independence (1821) left much of the country's resources, including vineyards, in tatters.
Modern times (1945–1975) saw Greece recovering from World War II and a bitter civil war. However, the last decades of the 20th century marked the new Greek wine revival, with small-to-medium-sized producers emerging alongside large winemaking concerns.
Today, wine lovers worldwide can enjoy the excellence of new Greek wines, produced from varieties and vineyards that have yielded renowned wines for millennia, cementing their place in the annals of world wine history.

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History

Greek Wine Law

Wine Categories: The European Union has established four wine categories for Greek wines:

  1. PDO Wines (Protected Designation of Origin): This category includes Greek wines bearing a Designation of Origin (VQPRD), comprising all AOQS and AOC wines.

  2. PGI Wines (Protected Geographical Indication): This category includes all regional wines and any wines of "traditional designation" that simultaneously have an established geographical indication, such as Verdea and 15 retsinas.

  3. Varietal Wines: This new category includes table wines that comply with the necessary prerequisites and controls. These wines can display their vintage year and varietal composition, but not their geographical indication.

  4. Greek Wines: This category includes all wines that do not fall under the PDO, PGI, or varietal categories. These "ordinary" Greek wines cannot display their vintage year or the varieties used in their composition.

Guarantee of Authenticity: Greece is among the first countries in the European Union to introduce wine laws to protect the identity and reputation of its wine-growing regions.

PDO Wines of Greece: PDO Wines of Greece include the previous Greek wine category of "Designation of Origin Wines" (AOQS and AOC).

PGI Wines of Greece: PGI Wines of Greece comprise the Greek "Local Wines" category and some wines of "Traditional Appellation.".

Designation of Origin: The concept of wines becoming well-known or famous due to their place of origin (designation of origin) is not uncommon in Greece and dates back to antiquity.

Greek Wine Law
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Greek Terroirs

Greece boasts an extraordinary array of unique and distinctive terroirs, thanks to its varied topography and climate. The interplay between the majestic mountains and the extensive coastline creates a mosaic of altitudes, mesoclimates, aspects, and soil types, often within a single region.

This diversity is reflected in the character of Greek wines, which have a remarkable ability to convey a sense of place. For instance, a glass of Roditis from the high-altitude vineyards of the Slopes of Aigialia or Patra, with its vibrant acidity and freshness, transports the drinker to the rugged, mountainous terrain and cool, "alpine" climate of the region. Similarly, the elegant, floral Xinomavro from Amyndeon and the powerful, tannic expression from Naoussa showcase the influence of their respective terroirs: the lighter soils and cooler climate of Amyndeon versus the warmer, heavier soils of Naoussa.

The Greek terroirs can be broadly categorised into four main types:

  1. Mountainous and semi-mountainous terroirs: the most common type in Greece, these terroirs are found in the mainland's imposing mountains and the inland vineyards of the islands.

  2. Volcanic terroirs are exemplified by the vineyards of Santorini, where vines grow on a deep layer of lava, ash, and pumice deposited by successive volcanic eruptions over millennia.

  3. Coastal terroirs: Vineyards have thrived along Greece's endless stretches of coastline, both on the mainland and the islands, since ancient times.

  4. Continental terroirs: Despite the predominantly Mediterranean climate, some inland regions experience a more continental influence.

The diverse topography of Greece, from the mainland's mountains to the sun-drenched islands, is mirrored in the gloriously varied mix of wine styles celebrated through the country's PDO and PGI designations.

Main Grape Varieties

Greece boasts a wide array of indigenous grape varieties that form the backbone of its unique and diverse wine industry. While some of these varieties have gained international recognition, others are still waiting to be discovered by wine enthusiasts worldwide. Here's an overview of the main grape varieties in Greece:


White Varieties:

  • Assyrtiko: Known for its crisp acidity, high alcohol, and intense minerality, Assyrtiko is the flagship variety of Santorini, now also cultivated throughout Greece. It produces full-bodied, age-worthy whites.

  • Malagousia: Rediscovered in the 1970s, Malagousia is an aromatic variety with notes of ripe peaches, apricots, and green bell peppers. It yields full-bodied wines with ageing potential.

  • Moschofilero: Despite the reddish or greyish hue of its berries, Moschofilero is mostly used for the production of dry white wines and some sparkling wines. Grown mainly in the Peloponnese, it produces aromatic wines with floral notes (especially rose petals), citrus, and fresh fruit. The wines are crisp and refreshing.

  • Robola: Indigenous to Cephalonia, Robola yields elegant wines with a "European" minerality, medium body, and excellent oxidation potential. When young, it may be likened to a Chablis, and after a few years of ageing, it can even be compared to a Riesling.

  • Savatiano The most widely planted variety in Greece, Savatiano can produce wines with distinct aromas of yellow fruit and freshly cut grasses, a smooth and well-rounded palate, and a well-balanced presence when cultivated and vinified properly.

  • Kydonitsa: An emerging variety with intense quince aromas (as the name suggests in Greek), ripe peaches, and underlying minerality. The wines are soft, juicy, and enveloping on the palate.

  • Roditis: This pink-skinned variety produces wines with high fruit levels, often reminiscent of ripe melon and honey, and intense aromas and flavours. The palate has a broad framework and a refreshing, almost Sauvignon Blanc-like, lemony finish.

  • Vidiano: Vidiano yields wines with elegant but highly defined floral and ripe stone fruit aromas. On the palate, the wines are medium-bodied but show extraction and minerality. It is an emerging varietal with claims for top quality.

  • White Muscat: Wines made from White Muscat display an outstanding complexity of fragrant rose petal, ripe fruit, and bergamot flavours. They are refreshing on the palate with moderate acidity and ageing ability. When aged in oak, sweet versions gain an intricate spiciness while retaining remarkable freshness.

  • Monemvasia: Monemvasia yields wines with notes of citrus and white-fleshed fruit, often on a mineral backdrop. The wines have medium body and refreshing acidity. An exciting variety that is an excellent expression of its terroir of origin.

 

Red Varieties:

  • Agiorgitiko: Agiorgitiko produces a range of styles, from refreshing rosés to delicious dry reds and concentrated sweet wines. Young Agiorgitiko wines have a moderately deep purple-red colour, intense fresh red fruit aromas, medium acidity, and soft tannins. Oak-aged versions display a deep colour, concentrated red fruit character, aromatic complexity, rich body, and high-quality, ripe tannins.

  • Xinomavro: Often compared to Nebbiolo, Xinomavro is known for its bright red colour, firm tannins, and complex aromas of red fruits, tomatoes, and olives. It has excellent ageing potential.

  • Mavrodaphne: Mavrodaphne produces sweet wines with a characteristic deep, nearly-black colour and dense aromas of dried prunes and currants. The wines have high alcohol content, medium acidity, and a distinctive, complex, and slightly bitter finish. Apart from the well-known sweet, fortified wines, Mavrodaphne can also yield remarkable dry wines with concentrated fruit and graceful tannins.

  • Limnio: An ancient variety mentioned by Homer, Limnio wines have moderate colour, with elegant aromas and flavours dominated by fresh, aromatic herbs and red berry fruits. The palate has medium acidity, silky tannins, and moderately high alcohol.

  • Mavrotragano: A recent rediscovery from Santorini, Mavrotragano yields wines with dense colour, concentrated aromas of coffee, smoke, and sweet red fruit, and a rich palate with robust tannins.

  • Liatiko: Liatiko produces wines with moderate colour intensity and aromatic profiles. The palate is full, with high alcohol, low and soft tannins, and moderate acidity. Sweet Liatiko wines, made from sun-dried grapes, are even more intense on the nose, with a candied fruit character and concentrated flavours on the palate, and notable acidity. Long barrel ageing is essential for all Liatiko wines.

  • Mouchtaro: Mouchtaro is a rare red variety cultivated in central Greece. It produces wines with dark red colour and an expressive aroma of red fruits with characteristic botanical notes.

  • International Varieties: In addition to the indigenous varieties, many international varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah thrive in Greece. These varieties are often blended with indigenous grapes to create unique, terroir-driven wines.

 

The diverse landscape and terroirs of Greece allow these varieties to express themselves in distinctive ways, contributing to the richness and complexity of Greek wines.

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Main Grape Varieties
Greek Terroirs
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Wine Regions

Thrace

  • A focal point of the Dionysian cult since antiquity, along with Macedonia.

  • In recent decades, viticulture has experienced a resurgence after a period of decline in favour of other crops.

  • The humid and warm climate with high rainfall is mitigated by the Rodopi Mountain Range, which protects against cold northern winds, and the proximity to the northern Aegean Sea.

  • Coastal regions like Maroneia and Avdira, located at higher altitudes and lower temperatures, produce wines with higher acidity and better colour levels.

Thessaly

  • Located in the heart of continental Greece, viticulture is concentrated on mountain slopes where grapes are of superior quality compared to those grown in the heavy, organic-rich soils of the plain.

  • Water is abundant due to several rivers, most importantly the Pineios, and the late-melting snow from nearby mountains.

  • High yields are not unusual in the vineyards of the Thessaly plain.

  • The 1980s saw a strong wind of change in winemaking philosophies, with the younger generation questioning established practices and areas.

Ionian Islands

  • Cephalonia is the leading pioneer in wine production, with the most famous and superior-quality wines.

  • Zakynthos is the birthplace of the Traditional Designation Verdea wine and home to the red Avgoustiatis variety.

  • Lefkada favours the cultivation of the late-ripening Vertzami variety, which benefits from lower altitudes for better ripening and sugar accumulation.

  • Corfu, although the largest island, is of no particular oenological interest, with Kakotrygis (white) and Petrokorithos (red) being the prevailing varieties.

Macedonia

  • Located in northern Greece, it spans from the Pindos mountains to the borders of Thrace.

  • Known for native cultivars like Xinomavro, the noblest red of the region, as well as international varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Syrah.

  • Vineyards are scattered among other crops and found on smooth terrain, mountain slopes, and semi-mountainous terroirs, often benefiting from the temperate climate created by the Mediterranean waters.

  • Fertile soil favours brisk vine growth and necessitates advanced training systems and cultivation practices.

Central Greece

  • It encompasses part of the Pindos Mountain Range, with plains in Attica, Boeotia, and Aetolia-Acarnania.

  • A wide diversity of soil composition and complex topography result in a variety of mesoclimates and wine styles.

  • Vineyards cover 28% of all Greek vineyards, with the largest acreage in Boeotia, Euboea, and Attica.

  • Traditional viticulture practices are still prevalent, except for recent plantings.

Crete

  • One of the most significant wine-making regions and a driving force in the new age of Greek wine.

  • Numerous endemic grape varieties, including Vilana, Kotsifali, and Liatiko, thrive alongside native and international cultivars.

  • Vineyards are situated on lowland plains and plateaus up to 3,300 feet, with a hot and dry climate mitigated by sea winds and high altitudes.

  • Clay and limestone soils dominate, with a high proportion of clay in many sites.

Epirus

  • Viticulture and winemaking date back to the 15th century, producing expressive wines from local and international varieties with a unique character.

  • Mountainous terrain, with most vineyards at an altitude of 2,300 feet, contributing to a humid and cool climate.

  • The Ionian Sea moderates extreme weather phenomena, while the Pindos Mountain Range acts as a barrier against humid winds from the Adriatic Sea.

  • Clay soils with a medium lime content retain enough moisture throughout the year, rendering irrigation unnecessary.

Peloponnese

  • The southern-most tip of the Balkan Peninsula is divided into two main vine-growing regions by mountain ranges.

  • The central and northern parts include Mantinia and Nemea, while the western part stretches from Mount Panachaiko to the Ionian Sea coastline, with the main areas being Achaia, Ilia, and Messinia.

  • Mild Mediterranean climate due to the moderating effect of the Gulf of Corinth and the protection and cool winds from the mountain ranges.

  • Vineyards are concentrated in mountainous and semi-mountainous areas, on rugged terrain, plateaus, and valleys.

Aegean Islands

  • Native cultivars dominate, with Muscat varieties in the northern Aegean and Assyrtiko, Athiri, Monemvasia, and Mandilaria in the southern Aegean (Cyclades and Dodecanese).

  • Strong winds, rugged terrain, poor soil, and minimal water resources have led to the prevalence of the traditional goblet system for pruning and training vines.

  • The unique volcanic terroirs of Santorini, Paros, and Rhodes hold prominent positions, while Samos and Lemnos are famous for their sweet wines.

Traditional Greek Wine Styles

Retsina

  • The best-known traditional Greek wine, with a history spanning thousands of years.

  • Produced by adding natural resin from the Aleppo Pine during the fermentation of white (and occasionally rosé) wines.

  • Main grape varieties used are Savatiano and, to a lesser extent, Roditis.

  • Premium quality Retsina has a characteristic balsamic aroma of pine that does not overpower the grape aromas, with a refreshing, slightly bitter aftertaste.

  • Only Retsina produced in Greece can carry the "Traditional Designation" indication, with the best-known areas being Attica, Viotia, and Evia in Central Greece.


Verdea

Nychteri: 

  • A dry white wine with a unique character from Santorini, traditionally made from Assyrtiko, Athiri, and Aidani grapes.

  • Grapes were traditionally pressed during the night (hence the name, derived from "nychta," meaning "night") to minimize damage and oxidation.

  • Modern production employs contemporary vinification methods but maintains the varietal composition, ecosystem, and organoleptic character of the original wine.

  • Nychteri is now a PDO Santorini wine with high alcohol content, produced from well-ripened grapes and aged in oak.


Marouvas: 

  • A high-alcohol, traditional wine from the Kissamos area in Chania, western Crete, made primarily from the Romeiko grape variety.

  • "Marouvas" means "aged" in the local Cretan dialect, indicating the wine's long-term aging potential.

  • Main organoleptic features resemble sherry or Madeira wines, with long-term aging in old, large barrels replenished with new wine each year.

  • High alcohol content due to the Romeiko variety and the area's soil and climatic conditions.

  • Distinct presence of oxidation in aroma and taste, which adds complexity to the wine's organoleptic profile.

  • Intense aroma that evolves over time, making it an exceptional traditional wine when enjoyed as an apéritif or with a slice of apple at the end of a meal.

Trade PowerPoint Presentations

‘Mountainous Macedonia, Epirus and Central Greece: A Spotlight on Greece’s dramatic terrain’ Presented by Richard Bampfield MW and Sofia Perpera

‘A diverse landscape: Central Greece and the Peloponnese’ Presented by Richard Bampfield MW and Sofia Perpera

Masterclass 3 (5pm – 6.15pm): ‘Island wines: Cephalonia, Crete, Samos, Santorini and Syros’ Presented by Bert Blaize and Sofia Perpera.

The Wines of Greece
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eGREEKwine - Episode 6a -  Peloponnese
08:07

eGREEKwine - Episode 6a - Peloponnese

To continue exploring: -Vineyards K. Antonopoulos (www.akvineyards.com) -Achaia Clauss (www.achaiaclauss.gr) -Acheon Winery (www.acheonwinery.gr) -Domaine Vassiliou (www.vassilioudomaine.gr) -Gaia Estate (www.gaiawines.gr) -Domaine Gioulis (www.domainegioulis.gr) -Edanos Winery (www.edanoswines.gr) -Estate Theodorakakos (www.estatetheodorakakos.gr) -Cavino Winery (www.cavino.gr) -Kintonis Winery (www.kintonis.gr) -Kissas Estate (www. ktimakissa.gr) -Lacovino Winery (www.lacovino.gr) -Lantides Winery (www.lantides.gr) -Lafazanis Winery (www. lafazanis.gr) -Mercouri Estate (www.mercouri.gr) -Monemvasia Winery (www.malvasiawines.gr) -Domaine Bairaktaris (www.bairaktariswines.gr) -Boutari Winery (www.boutari.gr) -Olympia Land Estate (www.olympiagi.gr) -Palivou Estate (www. palivos.gr) -Papaioannou Vineyards (www.papaioannouwines.gr) -Papantonis Winery (www.papantonis.gr) -Parparoussis Winery (www.parparoussis.com) -Domaine Repanis (www.repanis.gr) -Rouvalis Winery (www.rouvaliswinery.gr) -Sellas Winery (https://sellas-winery.business.site/) -Semeli Estate (www.semeliestate.gr) -Domaine Skouras (www.skouras.gr) -Ktima Spiropoulos (https://www.facebook.com/ktimaspiropoulos/) -Strofilia Winery (www.strofiliawines.gr) -Tetramythos Winery (www.tetramythoswines.com) -Troupis Winery (www.troupiswinery.gr) -Tselepos Estate (www.tselepos.gr) - Union of Wine Producers of the Vineyard of Peloponnese (www.enoap.org) (Wineries that are Greek Wine Federation’s Members in Peloponnese as well as the Union of Wine Producers of the Vineyard of Peloponnese, also a member of Greek Wine Federation) Music: Strangest Things by DoomBeail
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